175 Monmouth Rd,

West Long Branch, NJ 07764

Mon-Sat 7:00am-7:00pm

Sunday 10:00am-6:00pm

Mon-Sat 7:00am-7:00pm

Sunday 10:00am-6:00pm

175 Monmouth Rd,

West Long Branch, NJ 07764

Toilet Repair

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Local Plumber - Toilet Repairs & Service

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Toilet Repair Plumbers in All Monmouth County, New Jersey

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be one of the most common– and disturbing– plumbing problems you might experience in your home. Whether your toilet is overflowing or running continuously, toilet repairs are problems you can not put aside.


It would be best if you always try and keep toilets in good working order as they are among the most considerable fixtures in a plumbing system. We don’t pay them much thought till something goes wrong and they stop working.


The feared clogged-up toilet is among homeowners’ most common residential challenges. Many will try to fix toilet problems, only to find that the fix did not work or that the problem reappeared.


When your toilet requires more than a plunger service, it’s best to call a plumber near me for all toilet repair or replacement needs. With years of experience, our qualified team can deal with the project quickly and effectively.

Some jobs are better left to the pros...

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Most Common Issues with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs are best left for the pros to handle. Nonetheless, not every situation needs emergency plumbing services.

Allow us to go through a few of the typical toilet problems faced by customers who have called us for ideas on how to fix toilet problems:

Groaning noises from toilets

If you hear moaning noises from a toilet, it could be due to an increase in water pressure, which allows a water valve to shudder or shake.

Random or consistent flushing

Either of these 2 problems will potentially trigger toilets to flush and start filling on their own:


  • ( 1) the refill tube is too long, or
  • ( 2) it could also be a leaking flapper


This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, leading to a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes twice or even 3 times. A high water level is typically the source of this issue. Changing the float control within the tank will usually fix this.

Water leaking into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”

A slow leakage from the tank into the bowl is the source of the problem here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is unquestionably to blame.


Changing a worn or broken flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then change the flapper.

Sluggish flushes

A low water level or the lift chain that links the flush handle and the flapper valve cause a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle correctly inside the bowl.

Base leakages

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline and the base of the unit should be replaced if your toilet leaks when flushed. This procedure requires professional plumbing service.

The toilet is not flushing completely

  • Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
  • Check for a correct water level in the tank.
  • After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and type for your toilet.

The Bowl Empties Slow

Obstructed openings under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a bad flush. To clean any clutter, gently poke each flush opening with a bent piece of wire.


If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.


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Tips for Repairing Typical Toilet Issues Yourself

A toilet consists of 2 major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the flooring, and the top storage tank that holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made from porcelain with no moving parts.


Few repairs involve the bowl, with only a few exceptions. On the other hand, the storage tank is where 2 important valves exist and the handle for flushing. The storage tank is where most of the toilet repairs happen.


You will be surprised to learn that most toilet problems are fairly easy to fix without the need of an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair

If you’ve tried a new flapper to fix your running toilet and it still runs, don’t give up hope. Here’s a solution that ensures it works.


Few home annoyances are quite as annoying as the sound of a continuously running toilet. If you hear your toilet refilling frequently, or if you hear the consistent hiss of running water, the flapper could be leaking.


The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drain opening (flush valve drain seat) on the bottom of the storage tank. It holds water till the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water leaks out, creating the water valve to open and refill the storage tank.

Replace the Flapper-toilet repair

Step 1: Changing Flapper

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware shop or home center to find an identical one.


Note: Sometimes, a new flapper does not fix the problem. If you have tried changing the toilet flapper, but the toilet still runs, the flush valve seat is possibly rough or pitted.


You can replace the complete flush toilet flapper valve; nonetheless, it’s a big job, and it might need the experience of a plumber near me.

Step 2: Flapper Set with Flush Seat Repairing

If changing the flapper alone failed to work, look for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.


Note: You want to buy a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you adhere to the broken seat with the glue supplied.


  • First, close the water supply to the toilet.
  • Hold the flapper open while flushing to allow the remaining water to drain from the storage tank.
  • Use a sponge to wipe out the water that remains entirely.
  • Follow the included directions to install the new toilet flapper valve seat.
    • Pro tip: If your toilet uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a set that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to stay open. If your toilet utilizes more than this, eliminate the timing cup.
      Install the new flapper.
  • With the flapper down, adjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
  • Turn on the water to check the flush.


Note: You might have to fiddle with the chain size to get the flapper working correctly.

When finished, remove the excess chain to keep it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Broken Toilet Handle

If shaking the toilet handle does not stop your toilet from running, any one of these basic fixes possibly will.


A toilet handle is a primary device– only a few things can malfunction. The solution is much easier than you think.


Step 1: Loose Handle

If the handle is loose, tighten up the nut and washer inside the storage tank with a pair of pliers. Do not overtighten the nut; you might strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain storage tank.


If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it might not be mounted correctly. Loosen the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top of the storage tank, and re-tighten the nut.


Step 2: Stripped Threads

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, wrap the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape. Then slip the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut.

It is often best to replace the toilet handle if the threads are too damaged or broken.


Step 3: Handle Arm

  • Check out the handle arm for problems, splits, or breaks.
  • If there are problems, replace the complete handle and arm assembly.
    • Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the storage tank before purchasing a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front position left, front position right, front position universal, and side position.

Tip 4: The Chain

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain attaching the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

    • Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the storage tank, closed the water valve, and pull up on the flapper, letting the water to drain.


  • If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, utilizing the chain hook.
  • Leave a little slack in the chain.
  • If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
  • If the chain or the flapper is defective, replace it.

Toilet Shopping Tips

Fed up with your old, leaking, water hog of a toilet and wish to get a new one? Today you’ll find water-efficient toilets with an array of options. We provide these ideas for the next time you go toilet shopping.

Insulated tank-toilet-installation

Insulated storage tank

If summertimes are damp where you live, and you don’t have a/c, you’ve possibly spotted your toilet “sweating” quite a bit. Condensation forming on the exterior of a toilet can trickle down, making a water mess and even rotting your flooring.


Toilets today are made available with insulated storage tanks to avoid condensation problems. Look into this alternative if you have “sweating toilet” problems in your house.

Bowl height-toilet-installation

Bowl height

Bowl height is the distance from the flooring to the top of the toilet bowl’s rim– the typical height for toilets is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find toilets 16 to 18 inches high, commonly called “comfort level” or “ADA height” or something similar.


The added heights available make getting on and off the toilet much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging individuals. Toilets designed for youngster heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece-toilet-installation

One-piece vs. two-piece

A two-piece toilet (a separate storage tank and bowl) is the most common style in houses. Yet one-piece styles are offered. Two-piece toilets are generally less expensive; one-piece toilets often have shorter storage tanks and are much easier to clean up.


One-piece toilets are the choice of many homeowners for their smooth, streamlined appeal.



When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not instantly suggest better efficiency. Several of the best models we have tested were relatively affordable and performed well. In comparison, costlier ones were only marginal efficient.


Style is fickle. Stick with a white or an off-white color toilet to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later.

Flush-handle location-toilet-installation

Flush-handle location

If you have a large bathroom and have ample space above or beside your toilet, this probably isn’t all that essential. Be sure to pick a toilet with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the space is limited.


Purchasing a suitable toilet is very important, so spare yourself a return trip to the shop and pay attention.



“Rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that anchor the toilet bowl to the flooring and the wall surface behind the toilet. Twelve-inch “rough-ins” are the most common; nonetheless, in some older properties, you might have 10-in. or 14-in. “rough-ins.”


Pro Tip: Make sure to measure your “rough-in” and account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or flooring tile before you go toilet shopping.

Bowl design

A lot of toilets marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls. Round-front bowls are great if the area is tight. Elongated bowls have a more extended rim– as much as 2 in. longer– and need more space.


On the plus side, elongated bowls are usually much comfier for adult use and help boost health. Review vendor websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before choosing the bowl design.



If you install a new toilet with a smaller sized storage tank, you might have to repaint the part of the wall surface covered by the old toilet storage tank.


If your old toilet had a large footprint (the base covers a large flooring area), you might have to patch and repair the flooring part surrounded by the old toilet. You might also have to replace the whole flooring before installing a new toilet with a smaller sized footprint.

Some jobs are better left to the pros...

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