Toilet Repair Near Me

Our Toilet Repair Services Key Benefits

Locally Owned and Operated
High-Quality Workmanship
Bonded and Insured
Courteous Customer Services
Flat Rates with Upfront Estimates
Licensed Plumbing Professionals

Plumbing is what we do

Toilet Repair Services Near West Long Branch, New Jersey

Oakhurst, Eatontown, Oceanport, Sands Point, Monmouth Beach, Little Silver, Wanamassa, Macedonia, Tinton Falls, Red Bank

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be one of the most common– and troubling– plumbing problems you might encounter in your home. Whether it is overflowing or running continuously, a toilet repair is an issue you can not put aside.

It would be best if you always try and maintain them in good working order as they are among the most considerable fixtures in a plumbing system. We don’t pay them much attention until something goes wrong and they stop working.

The feared clogged-up toilet is among homeowners’ most common domestic challenges. Many will attempt to fix the issue, only to find that the fix did not work or that the problem reappeared.

When the issue requires more than just a plunger service, it’s best to call a local plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience servicing Monmouth County, New Jersey locations, our local plumbing expert team can take care of toilet repair quickly and efficiently, and at a reasonable cost.

Call us today and schedule a non-commitment appointment.

Some jobs are better left to the pros...

Get No-Commitment Estimates For Your Project in Monmouth County, New Jersey

Call A Pro Today

Most Common Problems with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs, installations, and services are best left for the pros to deal with. However, not all services need emergency plumbing services.

Allow us to go through a few of the typical problems encountered by consumers who have contacted us for suggestions on how to deal with them:

Moaning sounds:

If you hear groaning noises from a toilet, it could be due to an increase in water pressure, which makes a valve shudder or shake.

Random or constant flushing:

Either of these 2 problems will potentially cause the unit to flush and begin filling up on its own:

the refill tube is too long, or
a leaking flapper

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, resulting in a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing:

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes two times or even three times. A high water level is typically the source of this issue. Changing the float control within the tank will usually fix this issue.

Water dripping into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”:

A slow leakage from the tank into the bowl is the source of the problem here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is unquestionably to blame.

Replacing a worn or damaged flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then change the flapper.

Sluggish flushes:

A low water level or the lift chain that connects the flush handle and the flapper valve causes a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle down correctly inside the bowl.

Base leaks:

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline at the base of the unit must be replaced if it leaks when flushed. This procedure requires an experienced plumbing service.

Not flushing completely:

Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
Check for a correct water level in the tank.
After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and style for the unit.

The Bowl Empties Slow:

Obstructed holes under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a poor flush. To clean any clutter, carefully jab each flush opening with a bent piece of wire.

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

the best solutions

Toilet Repair Services

24/7 Emergency Plumbing Service

Pro Plumbing Service Tips for Fixing Typical Toilet Problem Yourself

A toilet consists of 2 major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the floor, and the top tank which holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made of porcelain with no moving parts.

Few repairs involve the bowl, with a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where 2 important valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where much of the toilet repairs occur.

You will be surprised to learn that most issues are relatively easy to fix without the need to call an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair Service:

If you’ve tried a brand-new flapper for a running toilet and it still runs, don’t give up hope. Here’s a solution that ensures it works.

Few home nuisances are somewhat as annoying as the noise of continuously running water. If you hear filling up frequently, or if you hear the constant hiss of running water, the flapper in the unit might be leaking.

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drainpipe opening (flush valve drainpipe seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water until the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water drips out, creating the valve to open and refill the tank.

Step 1: Changing Flapper:

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware shop or home center to get a similar one.

Note: Occasionally, a brand-new flapper does not fix the problem. If you have tried changing the flapper, but it still runs, the flush valve seat is possibly rough or pitted.

You can change the complete flush flapper valve; nonetheless, it is not an easy job, and it might need the experience of a plumber near West Long Branch, New Jersey.

Step 2: Flapper Kit with Flush Seat Repairing:

If changing the flapper alone failed to work, look for a flapper kit with a flush seat repair.

Note: You want to buy a Flush valve repair kit. The kit has a flapper and matching seat that you stick to the damaged seat with the adhesive provided.

First, shut the water supply to the toilet.
Hold the flapper open while flushing to enable the remaining water to drain from the tank.
Use a sponge to remove the water that remains entirely.
Follow the included instructions to install the brand-new flapper valve seat.
- Pro tip: If the unit uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a kit that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to stay open. If your unit uses more than this, remove the timing cup.
  Set up the brand-new flapper.
With the flapper down, readjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
Turn on the water to test the flush.

Note: You may have to fiddle with the chain length-size to get the flapper working correctly.

When finished, cut off the excess chain to prevent it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Toilet Repair Services: Broken Handle

If shaking the handle does not stop your toilet from running, any of these easy fixes possibly will.

The handle is a primary device– just a few things can malfunction and need to be repaired. The solution is easier than you think.

Step 1: Loose Handle:

If the handle is loose, the installation of a new one is fairly easy. Tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a pair of pliers without over-tighten it; you could strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it may not be installed properly. Loosen the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

Step 2: Stripped Threads:

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, wrap the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape.

Then, move the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut. It is often best to replace the handle with a brand-new one if the threads are too damaged or damaged.

Step 3: Handle Arm:

Check out the handle arm for problems, splits, or breaks.
If there are problems, change the entire handle and the arm assembly.
- Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before buying a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front position left, front position right, front position universal, and side position.

Step 4: The Chain:

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain connecting the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

- Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up the flapper, allowing the water to drain.

If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook.
Leave a little slack in the chain.
If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
If the chain or the flapper is defective, change it.

Shopping Tips for Toilets

Tired of your old, leaking, water hog of a toilet and wish to purchase a brand-new one? A toilet replacement is not a major job and today you’ll find water-efficient units with an array of options. Use the following ideas for the next time you go shopping for a new unit.

Insulated tank:

If summers are moist where you live, and you don’t have air conditioning, you’ve possibly spotted “sweating moisture” quite a bit on the side of the unit. Condensation forming on the exterior of a toilet can trickle down, making a water mess and even rotting your floor.

Today, most toilets are made available with insulated tanks to prevent condensation problems. Look into this option if you have “sweating” issues.

Bowl height:

Bowl height is the distance from the floor to the top of the bowl’s edge– the standard height is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find units 16 to 18 inches high, commonly called “comfort level” “ADA height” or something similar.

The additional heights available make getting on and off much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging individuals. Designs for kids with heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece:

A two-piece (a separate tank and bowl) is the most typical style in homes. Yet one-piece designs are offered. Two-piece designs are generally less expensive; one-piece designs typically have shorter tank and are much easier to clean.

One-piece designs are the favorite of many property owners because of their smooth, streamlined appeal.

Price:

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not instantly suggest better efficiency. Several of the best models we have tested were relatively affordable and performed well. In comparison, more expensive ones were only marginally efficient.

Color:

Style is fickle. Stick to a white or off-white color style to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later on.

Flush-handle location:

If you have a large bathroom and have plenty of room above or beside your toilet, this perhaps isn’t all that crucial. Be sure to choose a style with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the room is limited.

Buying a proper style is very important, to spare yourself a return trip to the shop, so pay attention when choosing style options.

Rough-in:

The “rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that anchors the toilet bowl to the floor and the wall surface behind it. A 12-inch “rough-in” is the most typical measurement; nevertheless, in some older homes, you could have a ten-inch or even a 14-inch “rough-in.”

Tip: Make sure to measure your “rough-in” and always account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or tile backing before purchasing the unit.

Bowl shape:

A lot of unit designs marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls.

Round-front bowls are good if the area is snug.
Elongated bowls have a more extended edge– as much as 2-inch longer– and need more room.

On the plus side, elongated bowls are usually much more comfortable for adult use which helps increase health. Review your vendor’s websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before choosing the bowl shape.

Footprint:

If you install a brand-new toilet with a smaller sized tank, you might have to paint the part of the wall surface covered by the old tank.

The same will apply if the old unit style had a large footprint on the floor, you might have to patch and fix the floor part surrounded by the footprint of the old unit. You may additionally have to change the entire floor before setting up a brand-new unit.